Greek Tales Episode 5. Folegandros, Greece

Travelers Tales:

[Dear travelers,

follow me this week to guide you to a Cycladic island with wild pure beauty and turquoise Aegean beaches. Folegandros is a small island -of about 750 permanent residents- located in the Aegean pelagos. Together with Sikinos, Ios, Anafi and Santorini, forms the southern part of the Cyclades. The island only has a port -Karavostasis (comes from the Greek words "karavi" and "stasis" which mean boat and stop and together the meaning is where the boats stop, Καραβοστάσης in Greek)- and is connected with Piraeus (about 5 hours). 

It has two big settlements. Chora is the islands capital and is built on the edge of a very high cliff. The other settlement, Ano Meria is located in the north part and is the most traditional part of the island. It is the rural settlement with the houses being at a distance and creating the so-called "themonies" (θεμονιές in Greek). Smaller settlements of the island are Karavostasis and Petousis. 

According to the Greek Mythology the islands first residents where shepherds from West Greece who were looking for pastures. Since these shepherds were only men, the island was named after them as "Polyandros" (from the Greek words "poly" and "andras" which mean many and man, Πολύανδρος, in Greek). The echo of this ancient name is the island's naval name as "Polykantro" (Πολύκαντρο, in Greek). 

Folegandro's landscape includes tall cliffs and a large cave. In order to visit all the beaches around the island it is advised to rent a car since the buses only take two routes {Chora-Agkali-Ano Meria}. Agkali (which is a Greek word and it means hug, αγκάλη in Greek) is actually the name of the beach at the spot, but you may also find accommodation there and nice local restaurants. Check the options on Airbnb if you‘re looking for a place to stay, that's what I did so I am recommending it. You may find accommodation in Chora, Karavostasis, Agkali and Ano Meria. Also be prepared for the possibility of windy days as the island is extremely exposed almost throughout the year to strong northern winds. 

View from the path to the church of Panagia to Chora.

The Ano Meria village has a small Ecological and Folklore Museum. Very nearby there is also a local small bakery. If you visit Folegandros be sure to taste the local cheese "souroto", "kalasouna" which is a local onion pie, the pure Cycladic meat, the freshly prepared pasta called “matsata” and of course the Cycladic desert “karpouzenia” which is made from watermelons (from the Greek word "karpouzi" which means watermelon, καρπούζι, in Greek). 

Folegandros is a unique example of Cyclades island with squares in the country's configuration and typical Cycladic "sokakia" (sokakia is a Greek word for streets, where the ground is formed in squares with white paint). In Chora you may also visit the famous church of Panagia on the mountain. You will definitely sweat to climb up there, but once you are there the view is breathtaking! Also one can go around the island with boats or visit some inaccessible beaches with it like Katergo beach. Be sure to notice the characteristic green rocks at the beaches you visit!

MK]

View at Chora

The route going to the church of Panagia

The route going to the church of Panagia

View from the church of Panagia

View in Ano Meria

Sailing

Sailing

At Katergo beach

Sailing

"Karpouzenia"

Chora's sokakia

Chora

Agkali beach

At one of the restaurants at Agkali

Agkali beach by night

"Matsata" pasta with meat